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All the Astorias!!!!

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Hi Everyone,

Well if you follow me on instagram or have watched my YouTube channel you will no doubt be aware of my latest obsession which strangely, although not sadly, is not a Sew Over It pattern but the Seamwork Mag Astoria Sweater.

I subscribe to the Seamwork Magazine but way before I subscribed I had been eying this pattern.  I was a little concerned about the length and had seen a number of versions where people had lengthened the sweater and whilst I could totally appreciate why they had lengthened it I did not like the effect it gave.  By lengthening the pattern you automatically made it hit at your hips which, I believe, from a visual point of view tended to cut you off at your widest part and make your hips look larger.  Whereas, if you kept the sweater cropped as intended it stopped at your narrowest part.

After I finished my McCalls 7547 dungarees I decided I needed something to go underneath which did not add bulk around the bottom area.  The denim I used was quite lightweight and any bunching or extra fabric would be seen through the denim.  Enter the Astoria!!!!  Mustard

My first version was this 70s vibe mustard Ponte Roma which, I have to admit, I fell in love with as soon as I finished it and it went straight on and out in the wild.

To ensure success with the neckband I measured it before I put it in and used a 70% measurement although it was a little tight and difficult to get in and caused me to review the formula I was adopting and whether it was relevant to all types of jersey?!?

So after my success with this version, and due to the fact that it only used about 3/4qrs of a metre of fabric, I got to thinking about other scraps of Ponte Roma that I had in my stash.

At this point I did toy with the idea of lengthening the pattern and actually added an inch when I made my navy version.  However,  I have to admit the fabric is not very nice and must have a high polyester content as it does not feel soft at all and whilst it is fine under my dungarees I don’t really like it with my jeans so decided in my future versions to keep the pattern as intended.  I think I was right to go with my instincts as the longer version sat in completely the wrong place.

As this was an incredibly quick make I decided it was likely to fall into the “1 hour Challenge” category for my YouTube channel and I had been asked on quite a few occasions to do a tutorial on jersey neckbands.  So I thought this would be the perfect opportunity to kill the proverbial two birds with one stone!!

I had just ordered some gorgeous rose Ponte Roma from Sewisfaction which can be found here with the intention of making a Sew Over It Molly Dress but I had 2 metres so, EEEK, I had enough for both (fist pump moment!!!).

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This fabric was soooooo gorgeous and as I’ve said on my instagram and also in the video it is probably the nicest Ponte Roma I have ever used.  It is a little expensive but given you would only need a metre is £12.50 for a sweater excessive?!?  In my opinion the answer is no and I am so pleased with the result.  This sweater not only goes perfectly under my M7547 dungarees but is also just what I needed to go with my new M7547 flares as is pictured here on the left and at the end of my video.

Fuelled by my latest successes I continued with my Astoria obsession and raided my stash for any other Ponte which I could use.  I had some lovely mint floral left over from a previous Molly Dress which was to be my next victim.  As I had previously made a dress from this fabric I new it went perfectly with black and therefore would be awesome with my black Sew Over It Ultimate Pencil Skirt and also my Simple Sew Shannon Trousers.  YAY!!!  The next Astoria was born (another fist pump moment).  floral

As hoped it did go perfectly with my Ultimate Pencil Skirt but I have yet to try it with my Shannon Trousers which also need fixing as I experienced another rubbish zipper incident!!!

Still cruising on my Astoria gig I had seen a version by Rae Hoekstra of Made By Rae some time ago using her Art Class Sidewalk for Cloud 9 jersey which I had fallen in love with.  As if I needed tempting anymore to purchase fabric, Mauds Fabric Finds had moved this particular fabric to their Sale section on the website.  Off I trotted to their site and accidently managed to order the Art Class and Fancy Steps for Astorias and some other prints for T-shirts for my twin boys (screaming bank balance moment!!).

Well the Art Class Astroria turned out just as planned and I absolutely love it but the Fancy Steps gave me a bit of a headache as far as pattern matching is concerned which is totally not my forte as I have mentioned before.  But rather than unpick my overlocking and re-cut the bottom band I decided to leave it and just resign myself to the fact that you win some you lose some.

My intention was to wear it under my dungarees so no-one will notice but to be honest it doesn’t really bother me that much anyway.  But we shall see how long I can put up with it before I have to redo it!!!!

So I think my Astoria journey has come to an end for the time being but I will definitely bear it in mind when I have leftover jersey.  This pattern ticks all the boxes versatile, quick and uses a minimal amount of fabric what more could you ask for?

If you fancy checking out my 1 hour challenge on YouTube I have put the link above which also gives a little information about how I tackle jersey neckbands.  This method seems to work for me and is a rough formula for calculating you neckband to optimise your success rate rather than having to put it in and take it out at least four times which, I am sorry to say, was me prior to establishing any particular mathematics to my approach.

Anyway until next time.

Thanks for stopping by.

Amanda xx

7 thoughts on “All the Astorias!!!!

  1. It’s a lively collection Amanda!!

    1. Thanks Sarah xx

  2. Wow! What a lot of Astorias, and all gorgeous! I love the fabrics you choose.

    1. Thank you I have to admit I got a little carried away but I love them all and definitely still need a black one to add to my collection. Thanks for stopping by xxxx

  3. Very nice. But I will say that lengthening this very cropped sweater still hits way above the hips. It is pretty cropped! And I’m short! Also, so many people have remarked about having trouble with the neckline. This is likely because the pattern calls for the bad to be cut straight when it should be cut on the bias. General advice says there isnt a knot bias but if there wasn’t a bias, we wouldn’t need to worry about cutting on the grain. That 20-25% stretch as opposed to 100% 4 way stretch means you absolutely will see a difference if cut diagonally. I’ve been doing this awhile and knits are my thing.

    1. Band not bad and knit not knot. Gotta love spell check! Sorry.

    2. Hi Lisa, thanks for stopping by and for leaving a comment. With regard to lengthening the sweater the versions I have seen where people have lengthened have tended to be a little too much and have caused the bottom band to kick outwards and in my opinion that is not so flattering. With regard to the neckband you are totally right and clearly cutting on the bais would help with stretch although with ponte romas, from experience, sometimes it can cause the band to wrinkle and distort and I much prefer to cut them on grain rather than on the bias. Thanks again for your helpful comment xxxx

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